Turkey has a special place in my heart because it was my gateway into being an open-minded and curious eater + cooker.
When I was 21 yrs old, I spent a semester abroad in Istanbul.
It was certainly an unconventional choice at the time. Which is exactly why I chose it.
I wanted to go somewhere out of my comfort zone. I figured, I realistically had this one lucky shot to spend 6 months living somewhere in the world and I wanted to be somewhere so unfamiliar that I could actually immerse myself how another culture lives and really learn something.
I remember watching Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations episode on Istanbul right before I left for Turkey and I was captivated by the rich intersection of food and culture. Going to Turkey for the food hadn’t even crossed my mind at that time, but then I knew then that food was going to be a huge part of my journey.
I was ready for the adventure of a lifetime.
I got off the plane in Istanbul, alone, no working phone, and not knowing a lick of Turkish - my first task figuring out how the hell to get to my University on the outskirts of the city. But at the same time, I remember feeling invigorated by the unknown.
I look back at the months that followed as my introduction into a true passion for food and cooking.
When I wasn’t in class, my days and nights were spent eating around Istanbul with my friend Emma (Emma - if you’re reading this, THANK YOU for being such a freaking soul sister in what could have been a very lonely time. Wow, did we have so many wild times together, and ate so much incredible food).
Simits and çay off food carts in the street… lamachun and çorba in the cozy cafés…kebabs, pilaf, yogurt, and pide in the family restaurants, stuffed mussels and raki served in dark alleys.
I even started smoking European cigarettes with my afternoon Turkish coffee - Immerse myself in the culture, I did!
On the weekends, I went to the neighborhood farmers market and loaded up on the freshest eggplant, zucchini, cheese, tomatoes, and olives (I had my first olive in Turkey! Love at first sight).
I cooked these ingredients a lot on my hot plate in my room (I was a college student after all, so I just couldn’t afford to eat out every single meal). It was my first time really properly cooking most of my meals for myself. And it was my first time eating whole meals of just vegetables (if you tuned in last week, you’ll remember that I had just eating vegetables for the first time ever 2 yrs prior). I learned to get creative with simple ingredients and cook on a budget.
I kept a little journal where I would write all the amazing little food spots I stumbled across. This was pre-unlimited data iPhone time so I couldn’t ever google “what the hell did I just order” or Yelp “best food to eat near me.” My directions would look like “Right on Taksim, left before Mosque, two rights down the alley, next to the narglile bar.”
And I’m so f*cking grateful for this experience abroad in Turkey because it made me so curious and open-minded about food! I never tried so many different types of foods in my life. I never had let food guide me around a city like this before. I never cooked so much with fresh local ingredients.
I think most people’s relationship with Turkish food is most likely limited to a drunk döner kabob (and trust me, I had a strong relationship with that as well during my time there). But it is such an incredibly rich fusion of Mediterranean, Balkan, Middle Eastern, Central Asian, Eastern European, Armenian, and Georgian cuisines (those Ottomans really got around). It’s very fresh and flavorful, and actually high on vitamins and antioxidants because it’s made with loads of fresh herbs and spices.
Which brings me to köfte - one of my favorite Turkish delicacies. They’re essentially meatballs - but that would be undermining them.
Generally made with lamb, and filled with fresh herbs and yummy spices - they’re super juicy and traditionally served along with rice, vegetables, bread, and a big dollop of yogurt.
I got his recipe from a Turkish sailboat captain who I rode around the Aegean sea with (that’s a story for another time…) and I make it from time to time when I want something to eat something super juicy, yummy, and healthy ….and I’m feeling nostalgic about my big, grand adventure.
Köfte
GF, DF
Makes about 6-8 generous meatballs
Ingredients
1 pound ground lamb
1/4 cup fresh mint, minced
1/4 cup parsley, minced
1 yellow onion, grated
3 garlic cloves, grated
2 tablespoons paprika
1 tablespoon ground cumin
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (if you want it a tad spicy)
Let’s do it!
Mix all the ingredients besides the lamb in a medium bowl aka the herbs, onion, garlic, and spices.
Add the lamb and gently mix until incorporated.
Form into small patties: these aren’t like Italian round meatballs - you’re actually going to flatten them out a bit (but not as flat as a hamburger). They’ll plumb up again once you cook them.
Place on a plate and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Time to cook ‘em up! These are excellent on the grill, but as my NYC apartment doesn’t have such a luxury, I cook them on my cast iron skillet - but any non-stick skillet will also do. Cover your pan generously with oil and set to medium-high heat. When the down-facing side is looking nice and brown (about 4-5 minutes), then flip. Cook for another 4-5 minutes, or until this side is nice and brown as well.
Garnish with a little xtra parsley and yogurt if you’ve got it!
I just enjoyed these with a little Mediterranean quinoa, tomato, cucumber, lemon, parsley salad : ) If you want to keep it classic, enjoy with some bread/pita, rice, and veggies.
Afiyet olsun (bon appetit!)
Love ya mucho,
Tessa
P.S. did you know that for each Sobremesa, I also make a lil’ cooking video? Follow me on Instagram and TikTok